After the general bitching about how Bacon Salt tasted more like Bacos than bacon, we expected Baconnaise to taste like Bacos in mayo, but Baconnaise is actually much richer and more bacony by far than Bacon Salt.
But that wasn’t an unequovocal good thing:
It’s so rich and meaty that it’s actually a bit overwhelming both in smell and flavor. It should probably be used more moderately than we used it, and maybe cut with regular or light mayonnaise for recipe purposes.
One of their staffers summed up his objections to Baconnaise by crontrasting it with what is wonderful about real bacon:
Scott Tobias came through toward the end and delivered an entire polemic on the concept of Baconnaise: “The fun of bacon is that it’s crispy and it has a texture. You put bacon and mayo together, and you have a winning combination. But bacon needs to exist as something to chew on, not something that lingers in your mouth as some horrible… it shouldn’t be a chemical aftertaste. It’s real food. I want bacon, not a bacon aftertaste.
While voicing sympathy with that point of view, the writers still found that Baconnaise had its merits:
And you know what? We agree with him. But we still think Baconnaise is a pretty genius idea, and it won about the closest thing to A.V. Club taste-test approval we’ve seen from something that wasn’t entirely made out of sugar.
The satircal wing of the American popular media is by no means united though. John Stewart doesn’t like what it symbolizes, or how how it tastes.